All Things Spanish

I think we have started to get the real feel of the ‘duende’ of Spanish people – their characters, social life and the ever so subtle aftermath of Franco. Simon has been interested in seeing a bullfight since reading Ernest Hemingway’s ‘Death in the Afternoon’ but wanted to see it with a keen Spanish bullfighting supporter. That turned out to be our neighbour, Antonio. Antonio has watched the toreo avidly on television all his life but had never been to a fight. Simon proffered an invitation and Antonio agreed in the usual nonchalant Spanish manner leaving Simon not quite sure whether he wanted to go or not!

It was the ‘Feria de Granada’ and the Plaza de Toros attracted a big crowd, with many of the women in full flamenco dress. Local boy ‘El Fandi’ (one of Spain’s top matadors) was a big draw. The most surprising aspect was the diversity of the crowd. A real cross-section of young and old, men and women, rich and poor filled the plaza, and all very enthusiastic.

There is a lot to understand about the event itself and I’m not sure I have either the knowledge or the space here to give it a fair rap, but the experience was undeniably spectacular with the word ‘Gladiatorial’ springing to mind. 3 toredors, 6 bulls, 4 hours. Visually, you don’t have to be the husband of a fashion designer to appreciate the colour and the clothing. It’s quite something, but I found the contest a little too one sided (and I don’t mean in the bull’s favour), to really appreciate it as a sporting event.

I have no doubt about the torero’s bravery and skill but he has a significant support crew, and whilst the risks are high, you know that whatever happens only one of them is going to end up on the barbeque..

Any doubt in our minds to whether Antonio wanted to go to the bullfight or not was put to rest that afternoon when the girls and I smelt incense and looked out the window to see a religious procession heading down the street. Nothing unusual about that other than leading the procession, was Antonio’s daughter in full communion dress with the rest of the family following behind. Evidently this was another ‘Corpus Christi’ event with the recently confirmed children being star attraction!

The following day we invited a few friends to lunch at which we, other than one American, were the only native English speakers. We had a lovely time and incredibly easy to entertain 6 children with a swimming pool and sunshine.

Simon coyly announced that he had been to a bullfight the night before knowing in advance that everyone there was anti the sport. Interestingly the main objection was that as children under ‘Franco’, they had been force fed a television diet of Flamenco, Bullfighting and Football.